Knitting reference
Yarn substitution — how to choose an alternative yarn
The yarn named in the pattern is discontinued, unavailable, too expensive or simply not what you want to use. Here is what to compare before buying the replacement.
Looking for a substitute for a specific yarn? Find a yarn substitute on YarnSub → It is a useful independent database for comparing possible replacements; still swatch before committing to the whole project.
| Step | Compare | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Yarn weight | Start with a similar thickness, but do not stop there. |
| 2 | Gauge / tension | The blocked swatch needs to match the pattern gauge. |
| 3 | Fibre | Wool, cotton, alpaca, acrylic and blends behave differently. |
| 4 | Metres per ball | Compare length, not just the number of balls or the gram weight. |
| 5 | Fabric behaviour | Check drape, stretch, stitch definition and how it feels after washing. |
| 6 | Care | A machine-washable original replaced with hand-wash yarn may be a bad swap for the project. |
Start with yarn weight — then check the actual gauge
Find the weight of the original yarn and look for a substitute in roughly the same part of the yarn-weight spectrum. Then compare the recommended tension or gauge on both yarns and, most importantly, the gauge required by the pattern.
Knit a proper swatch in the stitch pattern the designer specifies, wash or block it the way the finished project will be treated, and measure it afterwards. A substitute is only useful if it can produce the right fabric at the right gauge.
Fibre changes the finished fabric
Wool has bounce and elasticity that cotton does not. Cotton and linen can feel heavier and drape differently. Alpaca can grow and relax in ways a springy wool may not. Acrylic blends vary enormously.
That does not mean you can never swap fibres. It means you should decide whether the new behaviour suits the project instead of assuming the same gauge automatically means the same garment.
How many balls of substitute yarn do I need?
Work in metres or yards, not balls. First calculate the total length of yarn the pattern asks for, then divide by the length in one ball or skein of the substitute yarn and round up.
If you are lengthening the garment, changing the stitch pattern, working a different size or are worried about matching dye lots later, having an extra ball can be sensible.
Substituting a discontinued or brand-specific yarn
Ignore the brand name first and write down what matters: weight, fibre mix, metres per ball, recommended gauge and how the original fabric is supposed to behave.
A brand-to-brand “equivalent” is only useful if those characteristics line up. Treat online substitution databases as a shortlist generator rather than permission to skip the swatch.
Can I hold a thinner yarn double instead?
Sometimes. Two strands of DK can land around aran/worsted territory, and two strands of a finer yarn can be used to create a heavier fabric. But the result depends on the actual yarns, not just their labels.
Use the held-double section of our yarn weight chart as a starting point, then swatch the exact combination you plan to use.
Guidance checked against current yarn-substitution advice from established knitting publishers and industry yarn-weight standards. Gauge, fibre and metreage are all part of a safe substitution.
Useful next stops
UK, US, WPI and held-double comparisons for working out where a yarn sits.
Knitting needles →The needle size is a starting point; matching the finished gauge matters more.
Yarn & knitting storage →Once the substitute yarn arrives, give the rest of the stash somewhere sensible to live.